Another fun filled day spent trying to remove my swingarm.   To disconnect the shock linkage, the clymer manual said, 'Remove the pinch bolt' (Done), 'then push the shock arm shaft out through the mounting bracket on the left hand side'.          

Fecking PUSH!!!    

I started off with a drift and a rubber mallet before progressing to a drift plus claw hammer. The bugger won't fecking move. I have given it a good coating of WD40 and decided to retreat and regroup before another assault tomorrow.

In the meantime. I thought I'd bite the lug off you guys and Linz for some tips. There's more to life than lying on the ground in the pouring rain, trying to swing a hammer.  

Fecking murder.

Have you got the weight OFF the swingarm??

Try jacking it directly underneath the shock or where the shock should be.

Have you got the shock off?

You knocking it out the right way?

Need a bigger hammer?

HTH

Hmmm well obvious as it may seem, there's no weight on it is there?

On past experience, if a hammer doesnt work, a blow torch usually does ... altho I have no idea whether that's a good idea, and I'm not reponsible for things going tits up if it's not!!

There probably is some weight on it. I will jacking it a bit to see if it works. The shock is still on., that is supposed to get removed  within the next two steps in the manual.

I give it a go and let you know how I get on.

Davie
All the previous comments sound about right,the shock could be puting a downward pressure on the swinger,can you adjust the spring to reduce the downward pressure?
You might find that the spindle is siezed inside the inner collar of the bearing/bush so they will probably need replaced especially if you have to heat them.
What shift you on wednesday i could give you a hand if you want?
Alan.

I'm on nightshift. I'll give you a shout, if I need a hand. I'm only spending an hour or two a day. I'm just taking my time with it. I'm going to get the parts as and when I can afford the feckers. So there's no hurry to get it all done.

Take any weight off it, a good dousing in duck oil overnight, and the biggest hammer you can lift  :O

I cant help out except to say DONT LISTEN TO LINZ!
shes giving dangerous advice there mate.  She says that if a hammer dont work then a blowtorch will.  RUBBISH!

Last week I couldnt find my hammer so I used the blow torch. Bloody nails are still sticking and inch out the floor and the whole house has smoke damage!

How many posts do you think this is going to generate, when it comes time to put it back together.  :O

More than one.  Yet still less than a vast multiplayer ukbike medal of honour teamatch!

     

Zomebie hon, I fergot to put in the disclaimer about needing adult supervision!

If one had read ones post, one said one wasnt responsible for things going tits up, that includes setting fire to everything and erasing ones eyebrows    

If the bushing in the bottom link your trying to get out is rubber you may well have to remove the whole suspension in one, what will have happened is probably the bolt will be through a metal bushing and rusted in, the last time this sort of thing happened to me entailed a comple in one go removeal of the suspension & swinging arm, then I had to saw through the offending bolt.
 :sniffle:

Davie, Can you remove/unbolt the shock top mount?
If so, I would (as Xsian says) remove the whole back end & swear/shout/dismantle offending shaft in the heated comfort of ones home. If your dry & warm the job will become a lot easier-in your mind if not in reality. The wife may have other ideas of course!
Apparently its a lot easier to fit rear zorsts with the back out-so I'm led to belive.
HTH
As to generating loads of posts regarding re-fitting, well I belive both Clymer & Haynes are very fond of the industry standard.......................................................................











Re-fitting is reverse of removal procedure-simple isnt it?.........






It is when you have a workshop the size of a hanger & a carefully chosen "used" bike to strip & rebuild.

I didn't get a chance to do it today but it sounds like a good idea. I'm going to have a check at the linkage, while I've got the swing arm off.

What type of grease are you supposed to use for greasing your linkage.  :wwww: As the actress said to the bishop.

I'll need to get exhaust gaskets as well, for when I put the pipes back on. Do you need to use a sealer of some kind, when you fit the exhaust gaskets or do they seal through compression, when you fit the pipes.

I would suggest you grease yer nuts (&bolts) with good old copper slip, In fact one of my and my mates knicknames is the copper slip twins, slap it everywhere we do use tons o the stuff.

Generally on suspension linkages the actual moving parts are pushed up against and clamp to metal tubes moulded within rubber bushings, you don't generally have the moving parts actually rubbing together instead they twist within the rubber. What I would suggest you do is to copper slip all nuts & bolts making sure that the bolts are covered along their length, this will prevent them from seizing n the future. Also are you sure your pipes have a gasket on? usually where they go into the head they have split ferulles pushing them in via the clamp, If the can is flange mounted on the collecter box you may have a gasket between them, if so you could use a very small smear of exhaust jointing compound (obtainable from most car supermarkets). When Iv'e reassembled everything I give the joints a spray with chain grease as Iv'e found it to be more durable on exposed jionts:idea:  

Right, I managed to get the shock off. I looks as if I'll need to replace at least on of the bearings and since I'm a bit dubious about one of the others, I'll probably replace that as well. Which is great but also crap at the same time. The whole point of going through all this hassle, was to get into the rear downpipes off but they are still sitting there all smug and unreachable. Remind me never to but a V4 again.  :angry: Unless its brand new.  :love: But I digress, which is not unusual in itself.

There is a tin plate in the road, which is stopping me getting into the headers and I can't work out how it comes off. Maybe I'll have a better idea once I remove the swingarm but that needs a 12mm allen key to loosen off the bugger.  :angry:

This is getting more expensive everytime I take something off.  :verysad: I remember the days, when I just used to be happy riding the thing.

There's always a price to pay BD

If you have gaskets for your  downpipes-a dollop of grease will hold them in place as you struggle to fit the pipes back on!
You know, both hands trying to place the pipes in the right holes-gasket drops out-which hand do you use to put it back in?

Just remeber the thought when you are bike fixing

Always in the sh!t its only the depth that varies  :angry:

It is turning out that way.  :verysad:

Still it'll be worth it. Once everything is back together again. I just wish it was over and done with.

In my admittedly limited experience of dismantling bikes I have found that PlusGas is much more efficient than WD40 at penetrating when parts are seized.  Spray or drip it in, leave a few hours, have another bash, then repeat.

Anything you dont want to damage by hitting it too hard, use a bit of wood in between the part and the hammer.  Anything you can only get off by damaging it, well it has to come off so you'll just have to get another one!

The exhaust is off.  :D

But so is the rear wheel, swing-arm, shock, seat, sidepanels, fairing and shock linkage.  All just to loosen four nuts holding the downpipes on.  :verysad:

The rear down pipes look as if they're humped. At least I only have to worry about buying the stuff, then putting it back together. Some day, the viffer will live again.  :buttrock:

 :bowdown:  :bowdown:  :bowdown:
Good to hear it m8
Just an idea but with all this stripping down you must have left some exposed threads , i would give them a coat of copper grease if the the bike is going to lie outside

Yep, good idea. I've got a big tub of the stuff for just this sort of occasion. All the threads and bolts wil also be getting a fresh coating of copper grease when I'm putting it back together. Unless it needs ordinary grease of course.

Oh yes?! Enough detail for me BD

Now she's a looker.  :O  :love:

Yes mate... goes well I hear with a little lubrication  :buttrock:



And develops a sort of sex change type thing as well

She looks a bit horny.  :O





COAT!!!

No, you feckwit... it's a GOAT!!!

 :laughcont:  :laughcont:  :laughcont:

A goat in a coat, standing beside a moat, looking for a boat, to see if it will float.  :buttrock:

Ii am the next eminem.  :swivel: