Doing "bike love" tomorrow... I've got the oil and filter plus filter wrench (can't be outdone on the maintenance front by Fazer , and strap wrenches are a pain in the erse on Bandits).

Also, rather foolishly, bought a new set of sprockets and a chain. And a workshop manual (well, Haynes)...

Question is about the chain. I thought it'd be endless, but there's a master link whick I need to assemble, pack with grease, tighten and then bash. Well, need to "mushroom" the ends of the two outside pins, if you see what I mean. So, is it best to assemble the master link before or after fitting?

Guy in the shop said to assemble the master link on the free running section of chain after fitting.. Just strikes me it'll be a pain in the neck fixing the master link with the chain on the bike...

Is it best to link and then fit, or fit and then link?? Bearing in mind the back wheel will be coming out to fit the new rear sprocket... So I wouldn't have thought there'd be any problem with fitting after linking the chain....?

Answers on a postcard to the usual address. Cheers... Oh, and I'll be starting the job Sunday afternoon, so answers by airmail please!!!

P.S. That was an expensive trip . £175, and I only went in to get a new brake lever to replace the one I snapped last night while getting wound up with traffic jams, and botching a slow speed manouver... I'M A PLUM!!!

Ooooer ur copying me.... new chain AND brake lever?? hehe Dp fitted my chain for me and he fitted it then linked it with me helping (well..... I sorta held the metal bar in place while he bashed it took him forever as I wasn't holding it very still ) So, get urself a DP, I'm gonna see if I can get me one down here

If you link it up first you'll need to take the swinging arm out to fit it

To be honest, if the bike's three years old it's time the swinging arm and suspension bearings were cleaned and re-greased anyway, Suzuki seem to assemble them bone dry.

Undo the front sprocket nut before you take the chain off. They're bloody tight and you'll need the correct socket (32mm or thereabouts) a breaker bar and a piece of stout tubing (handlebars, scaffold pipe) to slip over the end of the breaker bar. Stick the bike in gear and get someone heavy to stand on the brake pedal - I put a piece of stout timber through the back wheel to jam against the swinging arm. Then start heaving on the end of the pipe from ground level at the back wheel - I got the lever up to petrol tank level (12 o'clock) before the nut went with an almighty crack and then spun off easily. I kid you not, they are that bloody tight!!!!

To rivet the link up, asemble it as the diagram shows and get it on the back sprocket. Get someone to hold a lump hammer behind the link and rivet the ends over with a ball pein hammer. Don't go too far or you'll crimp the link down and then it won't move properly and you'll get a tight spot.

Cheers FF. It wasn't all that tight... Well, after I'd been out and bought a 2 foot breaker bar anyway... That was rather an expensive exercise...

The new problem is that the starter now won't turn. The sprocket cover doesn't look to be seated quite right, - could this cause it? As far as I know, the sidestand switch and clutch switch shouldn't have been affected, as they're nowhere near the front sprocket assembly. But it's behaving exactly as if one of the starter interlocks isn't working properly (as in NO life at all from the starter).

Any suggestions welcome as soon as possible, 'cause I don't like the bus...

I think you could have stumbled on the problem. The wires for my stand kill switch run up the side of the front sprocket cover. Double check and make sure you didn't dislodge them or trapped the wires, when you refitted the cover.

I did initially trap the wires. But they're free now. I'll have to get a multimeter on them tonight. Thing is, that doesn't stop the starter turning if you're in neutral, - never did... The plot thickens.

PLEEEEEASE HELP ME!!! I can't stand the bus!!!

The neutral light wire runs up from behind the sprocket cover, not trapped that have you?

Would the Neutral light wire stop it working?? Anyway, I've fixed it. It seems the clutch release pushrod wasn't correctly re-seated when I put the sprocket cover back together, and I'd dropped a large rubber grommet into the sprocket housing too.

Still can't see why that stopped the starter from firing, but it evidently did, 'cause it's fine now. Thanks for the help with all that guys.

P.S. Is it a good idea to lube the chain before I ride it? It's completely covered in fresh grease at the moment, so I think I mightn't bother for a hundred miles or so...

I was told to check mine and possibly re lube it at about 100 or so miles which I did

Don't you have to be in neutral before the starter will turn, or pull the clutch in?

You can start in gear with the clutch in and side stand up... But I can see your point if it uses the same wire for the interlock. Anyway, it don't matter now, 'cause it's fine. The new chain feels great compared to the old one, so probably was time for a change.

Just got to track down the buzzing noise that's appeared when decelerating now. Could be serious, considering I initially put the rear wheel back on without the offside bearing cap thingy... Eeeek!

Tracked down the buzzing noise... It's the right hand fairing buzzing against the fuel tank. There were two bolts missing from the fairing, but I think the main problem is that the headlamp and indicator assembly frame is bent.

As in bent to the extent that the headlamp is no longer perfectly flush with the screen, and the clearance between fairing and tank is about 3/8" different on the left and right sides. Which brings me to the next question...

Anyone know where I can get a new headlamp and indicator mounting frame? I'd try some breakers, but I imagine that's the first thing to go in any crash. Could price up a Suzuki part, but that's likely to be expensive, yesno? Ideas gratefully recieved by carrier pigeon to the usual address.

DP - since I seem to have started fixing all the cosmetic damage before selling the bike, do you fancy doing a bit of plastic welding and spot retouching (tank) on a Bandit? Late September / early October be OK?

I got one for the RF off e-bay

DrB just PM me when & if you want any paintwork sorted.