Well then.....

Just bought the new addition to the family, a 98 GSX-R 600 SRAD. Braided brakes all round.


Buuuttttt:

Front brake lever very spongy (or should that be spongey?). Brakes stop ok, but much more travel in the lever than there should be.
So, got the brake fluid ready to change. What do you all recommend as the best way to change the fluid. I've read the other workshop thread about tying the lever back, but i am really after advice about the whole shooting match. I do have one of the one man bleeding kits with the non-return valve if that helps......



Any advice gratefully received as always.

Steve, with the bleeding tube I had, I found that I still needed to have the end of the tube submerged in brake fluid. Although the one that I used recently on the car, didn't seem to have the same problems. But I'd recommend some fluid in the bottom of the jar, just to be on the safe side.

I can't remember which caliper get done first, although I think its the closest one to the master cylinder first. You can also move the bars, so that the master cylinder is almost level, just by turning the bars.

When you take the master cylinder cap off, there's a diaphragm instead. When you put the cap back on, make sure this is seated corrected or else the fluid will seep out. I didn't and fluid dripped onto one of my fairing panels.

Don't let anybody shake the bottle of fluid or it'll be full of air bubbles before you even start bleeding.

sounds like good advice bd, i'd also recommend clamping the lever open over night, i did that with the cb and had firm brakes the next day.

Changing the fluid's easy.

Fit the correct sized ring spanner to the bleed nipple, then connect a clear plastic pipe to the bleed nipple and poke it into a bottle. Turn the bars to the left and remove the filler cap and diaphragm.

Gently squeeze brake lever and hold, open bleed nipple 1/4 of a turn. When the lever 'sags' back to the bar close the bleed nipple and release the lever slowly. Keep doing this until you see fresh fluid coming out of the plastic pipe. Now move over to the other caliper and repeat.

This'll flush new fluid through the whole system and should shift any air that may be trapped in the calipers. Don't forget to keep the master cylinder topped up while you're doing it, and don't be tempted to use that bottle of fluid that's been tucked away for years. Buy new, don't shake it up as BD says.

I know this will sound stooopid, but do i put the cap back on the reservoir after i have filled it?

I clamped the lever back last night and it has made a bit of a difference but not much. Considering the bike has braided hoses it should be standing on end when i brake. Now it keeps snatching....almost as if there is a slight warp to one of the front discs, but it didn't do this before i had the tyres changed.........

Any ideas. I must admit, i am very wary about touching two things on my bike, tyres and brakes.
I wonder if i should just drop it into the wokshops and ask tehm to take a peek?






Steve

You don't need to put the cap back on the master cylinder between refills when you're bleeding the brakes.
Brake fluid is like paint stripper so put plenty of rag on anything that could have fluid spilt on it.
Have you checked the brake pads to see how much meat is on them. If you ever prise the brake pads away from the disk when you are bleeding the brakes with the master cylinder cap off be aware the level of fluid in the cylinder will rise.

Steve, did you take the wheels off yourself or was it the garage. It could be that they've not fitted the wheel correctly. I double check the fitting and make sure the pads are in the right position. They're probably okay but it might be worth double checking, just to be on the safe side.

They did it when the missus took it up. I am on a late shift tomorrow so i will take the front wheel off and check it all i think...


Cheers guys


Steve

As regards which caliper to start with i have always started with the furthest from the master cylinder (L/H), this is how i was taught and it has stuck with me, i dont know if there is any benefit to this but it was a qualified bike mechanic who told me so who am i to differ.

FF has pre-empted my other thought on this subject, checking the brake pads and replaceing if needed can cure many brake probs.

In my experience braided hoses although vastly improve your brakeing often give a woody feeling, i once replaced the braided hoses with origional rubber ones and found them better wierd but true.

As far as the snatching goes... check your head race bearings, lose ones can produce a judder much like that of a warped disc.

Ace.

Ace, I would assume you've got it spot on. I'd need to double check with the manuals before I could definitely say which one to do first.

So it's furthest away first..

Just a word on spilled brake fluid - everyone always says be careful not to - but sometimes you do!
Don't panic, even if it gets on your paintwork, all is not lost! Wash it off immediately with lots of clean water and all will be well!

Worked for me, anyway!

The 'snatching' effect can be from bubbles in the fluid - you're pulling the lever harder cos its spongy, then a bubble pops or slips out of the way and suddenly you've got more braking than you were expecting - nasty!

Hm, new bike to you, braided hoses - have they got fancy coloured anodised banjo bolts? They are not as good as the old fashioned ones, can fail and let air in. And did they have new washers when they were fitted? You can bleed the brakes for ever if there's air getting in somewhere...

here we go my first reply,have you replaced the master seals?
they are inside the master cylinder,they come as a kit or are on the piston.

Sorted.............Took it to the garage guy. Needed new discs (reckoned when they changes the tyres, they dropped it onto the disc) and bled em..Also had the fork seals replaced. £150 for everything including new discs........Not bad eh?

Now

OMG a stoppeeeeeeeeeeee



Cheers for all the help and info guys

150 for everything is not bad at all the discs for the cb alone are 120 each