Hi

I need to change the oil in my 98 bandit 600 and was just wondering which plug will be better - original one or magnetic? There is no real difference in price. I have been told that original one will be better for my "old" engine. Is that true? And whats the difference between the two?

Thanks

The magnetic sump plug is pretty much the same, but it has a magnet on the end so that it can attract any metal floaters you have in your engine.

The oil filter's job is to catch this also.

I doubt the magnetic sump plug is going to make much difference to the life of your engine, and although I wouldn't go out and buy one to replace my sump bolt, I would buy one in your case as you seem to need a new one.

I have also heard of people attaching magnets to oil filters to try and attract the swarf and keep it at the filter.

It's worth noting that a magnet isn't going to attract aluminum and is a bit pointless imo.

At the same time though, you might as well get the magnetic one if they're the same price?

My Ducati has a magnetic sump plug - it catches (as David says) the swarf from the inside of the engine wearing. That's all it does.

It means you can see if your engine is wearing unusually. It certainly picks up flecks inside my engine. Obviously it won't pick up non-ferrous metals, but I don't think the point is to capture everything. The point is to give you an early heads-up of unusual wear and tear.

Go with the magnetic if it's the same price. It won't be any worse, and you may find it a lot better.

To me it sounds like you think the sump plug needs to be replaced when you do an oil change?

This isn't the case. You're only supposed to replace the sump washer and oil filter.

Be careful you don't overtighten the sump plug as it can be an expensive job to sort if you strip the threads. Also make sure you put the sump plug with new washer back in before you put the new oil in!

You don't HAVE to replace the crush washers but tbh I replace them everytime as they are really cheap. Order like 8 of them and keep the other 7 in a safe place for future oil changes.

I advise you get the 5 litre bottle of halfords motorcycle oil. Look around for the 8 piece screwdriver set they are giving away for free with the oil. 4 are flat screw drivers and are useful. The other 4 are pozidrive and don't really have any place on a bike. They can be used to remove Phillips heads but they could damage the screwhead.

Normally the motorcycle oil is at the bike bit with no sign of the screwdrivers. Go over to all the 5 litre bottles of halfords car oil and there should be the pack of screwdrivers sitting on display. Grab one of them. I have already got two sets of these screwdrivers and plan to get more. The screwdrivers are normally like 20 quid, but I wouldn't personally pay that for them. The motorcycle oil is about 23.99 and you'll get the screwdrivers included but you have to bring them up to the till.

....and next time order another 8, because you have forgotten where the safe place actually is....

Yeah - I was going to say that, but I was hoping everyone else had a better idea of what the hell was going on in their garages than me...

Thanks a lot guys. Just ordered magnetic plug and few washers. As you say will only replace washer and keep drain plug if needed in future. Also, ordered fork seals as I noticed tiny leak. Now just waiting for the weekend to change oil/brake fluid, fork seals, air/oil filter, check spark plugs and battery liquid level etc. What other thing you would suggest to check in used bike you just bought?

I would check for any freeplay in wheel bearings, steering head bearings, sprocket carrier bearingand check over the condition of the tyres.

If your bleeding the brakes then I presume you'll check the condition of the brake pads to make sure none are needing replaced.

I would also pop the front sprocket cover off to give it a good clean inside and inspect the front and rear sprockets. Give the chain a good clean using paraffin and a toothbrush and make sure it's adjusted to the right and the rear wheel is aligned.

It's also worthwhile going over all the electrical connections, inspecting them and packing them with silicone grease. That way you can spot anything that has the potential to become a problem. Go over everything including the left and right handlebar switchgear. (especially the right one with the killswitch on it). I had a problem on my bike where the bike was randomly cutting out due to the wires on the right hand switchgear being routed incorrectly and had chaffed and was killing the engine randomly.

Obviously check no cables are getting chaffed and are routed correctly.

Inspect the condition of the tyres. Not just tread depth but also for any damage. Go over the main nuts and bolts to make sure they have been tightened correctly and that there isn't any split pins missing. eg: front and rear spindles, bolts that clamp the forks to the yokes, swingarm bolts, brake caliper bolts, torque arm etc. It might be worthwhile using some loctite to stop some of these vibrating loose.

Inspect the brake hoses to make sure they aren't damaged.

I guess you could check things like idle speed, get your carbs balanced etc if needed too.

Do you know when the valve clearances were last checked?

If you don't have a haynes manual then it's worthwhile getting one.

Hmm thats sounds like quite a lot of work, the work I have no idea about will do all these thing when I will find some free time. Oh and definitely will get a manual.

Thanks a lot for check breakdown