Hmmmmm, yellow orb out 2day so I left work early n stuck on a few more miles. Now I have reached 6000 which is the service interval. Know that a new tyre is required after another few miles, rear brake pads changed courtesy of DP , front pads ok, oil and filter change a couple of weeks back and all running fine. Do I need the service to maintain the warrenty or seeing that it was left for over a year and the manual states 6,000 miles or a year is the warrenty useless anyway. Also rough idea of cost would be handy. Cheers Mally
ps, how do i break it to the wife that its done 4752miles since the start of April and needs a service.
Tyre wear is easy , just tell her it had a puncture

Sounds like you've already covered most things. Depending on the bike it might need a check on the valve clearances. A new set of plugs and a carb balance wouldn't go amiss either.

If you're keeping on top of things like chain and pads, and checking bearings when you do them, cables and wiring connectors and general spanner checks then you're already outstripping most dealer workshops.

I'm not a believer in doing everything when the three noughts clock over.

buy yourself a haynes manual, a set of vacuum guages(then i can borrow them) & you're set.
I personally wouldn't bother with a service mally, as ff says you've done most of what  a shop will do.You're warranty is prolly void-but check with yamaha.
also is it bucket & shims,hydraulic, or screw type tappets, if its the latter, then all you need is a set of feeler gauges to set your valve clearances.if its bucket & shims, its a bit more fiddly, but nothing we cant cope with at the workshop one sat morning.

Can you do mine at the same time then?

How friendly is the dealer? If you go in and say, "Look mate, I've done ...

(insert list of tasks here)

so can you do the rest of the 6k service and stamp the book?" he might be agreeable. If not, so what?

He *might* wash the bike for you - I think that's all that's left (oh sorry, I forgot, washing it would be extra wouldn't it?) but if the book gets stamped then you're still A-OK warranty wise. If you're buying the parts from this dealer then it probably won't be a problem as he'll know what you've put on the bike.

It's got to be worth asking now hasn't it ...?

If you're doing the work yourself, you're probably doing it more carefully and with far more thoroughness than the bike would get in the workshop. I spent a little over 2 hours last Sunday taking my front calipers off, removing the pads, cleaning the dust from between them, gently pumping the pistons out a tad, cleaning them up and putting it all back together again. The result was a much improved brake response - too good in fact - and there's no way I'd pay someone £40+ per hour to do that same work.

It's just a shame that the only manual for my machine is the factory one at the moment. On the bright side, compared to my previous grey imports, at least the info for this one is in English!

I was about to go to the kitchen and open a can of worms but mally has done it for me!

servicing - what a crck of sh!t!  Most dealers do the bear minimum they can get away with.  feckers.  Charge a fortune for feck all mostly.  If its an early service they basically check fasteners ( supposedl;y) and change the oil.  But  most cant even be arrisd to do that.  learn how and do it yourself.  At least youlll know it was doen properly.  


Like i say....
full dealer service history...
generally means     service performed incorrectly on a regular basis...

just to let you know ,yamaha are the only maker to put in the service schedule that you do not need to check the shims until 24000 miles,having owned a fazer my self,the only thing to look out for is that the carbs are in balance.i did 15k miles on mine,got about 150mph out of it then i thought i had better get a bigger bike before i blow it up.all i did to it was change the oil an filter about 4k miles,balance the carbs,an lube all pivot points,i tryed to keep it clean and wash all salt off it in the winter.yams rot very quikly if you dont.all i did to mine was put a micron race end can ,kn filter and stage one dyno kit.on the rear shock i put it on number 3 of 6.(middle) and if you have adjesters on top of forks wind them in all the way,run tyres at 42 rear,36 front(psi). and you should have a sweet handerling and a very quick 600.the engine comes from the fzr range and has been around for donkies. enjoy old bean