I've toyed with the idea of getting a torque wrench on loads of occasions. I probably should considering the stuff that I try to do on my own bike but which bugger should I go for.

Not just the make. For instance, what sort of range of force will be most used on the bike?

Or should I just stick to the one or two grunt stuff?  :blush:

Not that I do much spannering but I would always suggest using the right tool for the job.  Over tightening can be just as dangerous in some cases or cause as many problems later on when you need to remove it again as under doing it can.  

I've no suggestions on which one to buy though (one that fits your budget is probably better than none at all) but others will no doubt chip in.

Dave,

I went mad a couple of years ago and bought a torque wrench. I bought a 3/8" drive Teng one which covers 19Nm to 110Nm as this covered most of the range I needed. To be honest, two torque wrenches is probably the way to go. Why?
A low range 3/8" drive one for small stuff 0-50Nm range and a 1/2" for the "heavy" stuff (50-150Nm) would be ideal, but I didn't have the cash so plumbed for a quality middleweight.

There seems to be a wide range of quality wrenches out there, some hold their calibration better than others. I went for the Teng one because I've used some of their other tools and been generally impressed and it was the best I could afford. The Halford's professional range of stuff has really come on a lot now though (and Halford's now sell Teng tools too!)

I got mine through Martin Plant Hire. They had to order it in, but it only took a few days and they gave me a 10-15% discount over the RRP for having to wait.

It's useful for knowing you are not about to overtighten that sump plug, brake caliper bolt, fork leg bolt, whatever ... but it's only as good as the calibration (don't wind it below it's minimum setting for instance), or the spec sheet you are reading for the torque setting.
The Haynes book of lies had the sump plug setting for my Sprint all wrong cos I had a 13mm bolt rather than the 19mm hex plug in the manual. I realized there was an issue as I saw the washer being crushed beyond what was reasonable. No damage, just an annoyance.

So while you can still overtighten and shear stuff, (if the wrench isn't set right or the spec sheet is wrong) I regard it as another safety catch. Common sense should still be your overriding setting though.

If you think it's tight enough, it probably is.

The only down side s that folks mistake you for a "proper" mechanic - just cos you've got a torque wrench.



Have torque-ing,

Spud

... err that should have read:

Happy torque-ing!


- Spud.

Go on, do it.  You'll never look back.  A 3/8"" drive one will do all the bits that are likely to sheer on the bike.  It also doubles as a club when trying to get the barmans attention in the pub.

BTW, IF you do, make sure to set the wrench to it's very lowest setting when your done as if you leave the spring bit inside under tension it will lose it calibration.  Surprisingly quickly!

Barra

My last two purchases were a breaker bar and a impact driver.  :eyebrow:

Is this is purely coincidence.

Barra's right about turning the wrench down after use :buttrock:


I use a 0 - 50 lb/ft one on the lower torque value bolts - things like camshaft retainers, head and barrel bolts, crankcase bolts. These things not only need to be tightened down correctly, you also have to make sure that something like a cylinder head is tightened down evenly. Cam retainers aren't very tight - overdo them and you could have the cam sieze in the head by restricting the oil supply. Same with case bolts that hold the crank in. Head bolts need no explanation here I'm sure ::


Things like caliper bolts and wheel/swinging arm spindles I tighten using 'experience'. They either need to be 'tight' or 'bloody tight'.

Where can I get a torque wrench calibrated, how often does it need doing and how much does it cost. I remember FF saying that he could calibrate them but he's a bit far away.

Torque wrenches always seem a bit like black arts to me. What i mean is how can you be sure of the setting if you dont know other factors?  If it is ten below for instance then a particular torque setting will be nonsense at ten above.  If you live in a low atmospheric pressure location ( dunno where!) then it will again be nonsense at atmoshpere.  It seems a bit like quoting dB's of sound with no reference or giving 'watts' as a measure of transformer performance without knowing any power factors or loads.  I have never used a torque wrench but likewise i have never done anything too serious in respect of mechanical jiggerings.  It just seems like toss to say that something is set to 30 ft/lbs or whatever without knowing other factors or references. Measurement is always a load of crap unless all factors are known and absolute but then all absolutes are toss unless all factors are known and controlled.

yeah, buy a torque wrench coz the professionals use them so they must be good.  i know bugger all about mechanical jiggeriness so dont listen to me - i was just babbling.